Bauhaus Throw – Rough Pattern

Two weeks ago, when I finished this Bauhaus throw, I took it to Oxford Yarn Store.  I was encouraged to write a pattern – so that others could have a go at the throw if they liked it. Therefore, I am including the rough pattern below.  I hope it doesn’t contain any mistakes. The photos have been stolen from the Oxford Yarn Store Newsletter.  When knitting the throw – I turned the postcard on its end – so that I could knit 2 columns of 3 large squares one on top of another– rather than 3 columns of 2 large squares.

Materials:

9 Shades of Rowan Pure Wool Worsted (100g/200m) – 10 balls in total:
I ball of Mauve (158), Blue (146), Gold (133), Black (109), Lime (125), Grey (112), Rust (106), Red (136) and 2 balls of Cream (102). [I used about 80g of each ball.]

Needles: 5½mm

The throw is made up of 6 large squares made up of 36 small squares – there are 4 squares of each colour within a large square.

This throw has been knitted in one piece – there is no sewing up.

Start in the bottom left-hand corner. [On the postcard above that is the top lefthand corner]

Instructions for Basic Square
Row 1: Cast on (or pick up) 23sts.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3:  K10, slip 1, K2tog, psso (pass slipped stitch over), K10 (21sts)
Row 4:  Knit.
Row 5:  K9, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K9 (19sts)
Row 6:  Knit.
Row 7:  K8, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K8 (17sts)
Row 8:  Knit.
Row 9:  K7, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K7 (15sts)
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: K6, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K6 (13sts)
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: K5, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K5 (11sts)
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: K4, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K4 (9sts)
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: K3, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K3 (7sts)
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: K2, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K2 (5sts)
Row 20: Knit.
Row 21: K1, slip 1, K2tog, psso, K1 (3sts)
Row 22: K3tog and fasten off.

Next knit the square above the first one by picking up 11sts from the top of the first square and casting on 12sts to make 23.  Then complete from Row 2 onwards. 

I worked the first 6 squares in a column, and then started at the bottom again – where you need to cast on first and then pick up sts from the side of the first square.

When I had completed all 36 little squares – I picked up and knitted 72sts across the whole large square and knitted 5 rows in the main colour.  I then knitted large square 2 above the first square and then another 5 rows of main colour and then Square 3.  You can divide the 72 sts into 6 groups of 12 and then you just need to cast on or pick up 11 for the left-hand side of each small square on the base row.

When I had completed 3 large squares, I then picked up 204sts along the right-hand side of the 3 large squares and the 2 strips and knitted 5 rows in the main colour for the centre spine. I left these stitches on spare yarn and then used them as necessary for the side of the next column of squares.

I then knitted the 3 large squares on the other side, starting by casting on 12sts and then knitting 11sts from the central spine.

When you knit the horizontal strips on the left-hand side of the throw you can join them to the spine by knitting the edge stitches together or you can sew up the small hole.

When all 6 large squares are knitted – knit the edges.

Side Edges: In main colour – pick up 204sts and knit 5 rows.  Cast off.

Bottom and Top Edges: In main colour pick up 141sts across the squares and the edge of the side edging.  Knit 5 rows and cast off.

Sew in ends and block the piece.

Christmas Wreath

There are a few words that I find difficult to spell – wreath is one of them – I want to put wreathe.  I think the latter is a verb.

This is a present which I have made for Oxford Yarn Store’s birthday.  It would make more sense as a Christmas present – but it is the store’s birthday at this time of the year.

I have knitted several different wreaths over the years and no 2 have been the same.  Basically I use some dark green to knit the basic ring shape and then stuff it.   I just knitted a straight piece of stocking stitch and then joined the end to the beginning to make a ring.  I then joined the sides to make a tube leaving a gap for the stuffing. 

I then use a Loopa to produce some foliage using 4 or 5 different dark green yarns including something textured.

Then I knit bits to decorate the wreath.  This time I have knitted 2 different kinds of red flowers.  

I have knitted some basic leaves and cut some leaves out of an old jumper which I had felted.   Thirdly I knitted a bit of holly.  This is fun but a bit fiddly.

I could have left it at that but I think I will sew on some gold beads to lift it a bit and make the finished wreath a bit more sparkly!

Below I am including a rough pattern for knitting a Christmas Wreath – without the instructions for a open flowers (which are not mine to publish).  However – if you want to make a wreath – I advise you to make one up using whatever yarn you have and decorating however you wish.

Christmas Wreath Pattern

Materials

100g DK in dark green
50g DK in contrasting shades of dark green (ideally include something textured if you are going to use a Loopa)
50g textured DK in red
50g of red DK for berries and roses
Small amount of yellow DK yarn
Gold beads
Stuffing material for the base.
4mm needles
Loopa (if available)

Base

Using dark green DK and 4mm needles cast on 30sts and work in stocking stitch for 186 rows.  Cast off and sew the top to the bottom to form a ring.  Join the side seams leaving a gap to add the stuffing.  Stuff the ring and sew up the gap.

Roses (Make 3)

Using red DK and 4mm needles cast on 35sts.

Row 1: Knit.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: *K2, M1, (pick up the loop between the sts and knit into the back of it); repeat from * to end. (52sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: *K3, M1; repeat from * to end. (69sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: *K4, M1; repeat from * to end. (86sts)
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: *K5, M1; repeat from * to end. (103sts)
Cast off.
Wind up into a rose shape and sew together leaving a tail to use to sew the rose onto the wreath.

Rose Leaves (Make 16 or as many as required)

Using green DK and 4mm needles cast on 3sts.
Row 1: K1, M1, K1, M1, K1. (5sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2, M1, K1, M1, K2 (7sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K3, M1, K1, M1, K3 (9sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K4, M1, K1, M1, K4 (11sts)
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: skpo (Slip one, knit one, pass the slipped stitch over), K7, K2tog. (9sts)
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: skpo, K5, K2tog. (7sts)
Row 12: Purl.
Row 13: skpo, K3, K2tog. (5sts)
Row 14: Purl.
Row 15: skpo, K1, K2tog. (3sts)
Row 16: Purl.
Row 17: Slip 2sts together, K1, pass the slipped stitches over. (1st)
Fasten off.

Red Christmas Roses (Make 4)

I used Nicky Epstein’s small flower pattern for these.  You could use any flower pattern you have access to.

Holly leaf (Make 4)

Using dark green DK and 4mm needles, cast on 3sts. 

Row 1: K1, M1 (pick up the loop between the stitches and knit into the back of it), K1, M1, K1. (5sts)
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: K2, M1, K1, M1, K2. (7sts)
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K3, M1, K1, M1, K3. (9sts)
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: Cast off 3sts, M1, K1, M1, K4.
Row 8: Cast off 3sts, P4.
Row 9: K2, M1, K1, M1, K2.
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: Cast off 2sts, K4.
Row 12: Cast off 2sts, P2
Row 13: Slip 2sts together, K1, pass the slipped stitches over.
Fasten off.

Holly berries (Make 6)
Using red DK and 4mm needles cast on 4sts, and work in stocking stitch for 3 rows. Cast off.  Tie the cast on tail to the cast off tail and shape into a ball.

Join the berries together and sew the leaves together.  Sew in any ends. Then sew the berries onto the front of the leaves.

Loop to hang wreath
Using 2 strands of dark green DK make a chain of 20sts.  Make into a loop and sew onto the top of the wreath base (at the back).

Finishing
Make a Loopa “scarf” in 5 shades of green.  If you haven’t got a Loopa – you could just add more leaves. As well as the Loopa scarf, I added additional leaves by felting an old jumper and then cutting out leaves from that. 

Position everything on the base and then sew into place.

King Cole Riot

For the last few weeks I have been knitting a scarf in King Cole Riot DK yarn.  I have decided that it is finished.  The yarn is 30% wool and 70% acrylic and this shade is called Reggae (1842).

I didn’t have a pattern but I cast on 52sts using 4.5mm needles and worked a 2 row pattern as follows:

Row 1: K1, P1, K2; rep to end.
Row 2: K2, P1, K1; rep to end.

I had 3 balls of yarn but I only used most of 2.

As with most scarves I found it difficult to knit because it is so boring!  However, if you are very tired and not paying much attention – it is an ideal project!

Also this week I have finished another project that I started years ago.  I have started my annual clear-out and found a few unfinished projects which do not require much to actually be finished. 

This is called Isis by Jan Henley and was published in Let’s Knitting magazine Issue 72 in 2013.  I liked it as soon as I saw it and bought the yarn on my way home after reading the magazine on a train.

I knitted it straightaway.  It is also knitted using King Cole Riot – but this was chunky yarn and used 4 shades 2 balls of Seashore (653), Dawn (652)and Lava (662).  I cast off and then forgot about it.  

Actually every time I came across it since 2013 – I have intended to finish it – all it needed was the ends sewing in and buttons sewn on.  I have finally done both of these things this week.  I won’t be wearing it but now it is finished I can send it to the local charity shop.  I hope someone likes it.  Otherwise it could be unravelled and the yarn reused.  I did think about doing this myself – but I have got too much yarn.  I enjoyed knitting it.  I am a process knitter.

I am now knitting something that I do intend to wear.

An English Adventure – Day 34

The throw is finished and I have typed up a pattern.  I think it makes more sense if you look at the photos.

In the end I did just put an edge on the modules which didn’t have one. 

On Saturday I went to a Knitting and Crochet Guild meeting in Reading and the topic was Modular Knitting.  I finally got to see a copy of the African Adventure pattern – I noticed that a module has 31 sts – so they are smaller than in my version.  I assume the pattern uses thinner yarn and smaller needles as well but I did not look at this.

My version of the pattern is shown below.  I just want to tell you about colours.  I roughly used parts of 2 balls of Kureyon for a section and then used the rest of both balls for another section – and there was still some left over which could be used for edge modules or for the garter stitch joining pieces.  I am repeating some of my photos to make the instructions a bit clearer.

English Adventure Throw Pattern

Materials

7 x 50g balls of Noro Tokonatsu (Yarn A) – Colour 10
Approximately 16 x 50g balls of assorted colours of Noro Kureyon (Yarn B) – including Shades: 374, 124, 344, 272, 352, and 319.
6.5mm needles
Stitch holders (or spare needles)

Measurements

Width:  54” (137cm)
Length: 84” (208cm)

Instructions:
Module 1

Row 1: Using 6.5mm needles and Yarn A, cast on 40sts. 
Row 2: K1, purl to last st, K1.
Attach Yarn B (carry Yarn A up the side of the module until you need it again).
Row 3: K2tog, knit to end. (39sts).
Row 4: K2tog, knit to end. (38sts).
Rows 5-8: Knit.
Using Yarn A (carry Yarn B up the side of the module until you need it again).
Row 9: Knit.
Row 10: K1, P1, (P2, P2tog) 8 times, P2, K2tog. (29sts).
Using Yarn B
Rows 11-16: Knit.
Using Yarn A
Row 17: Knit.
Row 18: K1, (P1, P2tog) 9 times, K1. (20sts).
Using Yarn B
Rows 19-24: Knit.
Using Yarn A
Row 25: Knit.
Row 26: K2tog, (P2tog) 8 times, K2tog. (10sts).
Using Yarn B
Rows 27-32: Knit.
Using Yarn A
Row 33: Knit.
Row 34: K2tog, purl to last st, K1. (9sts).
Cut off Yarns A and B, and using a contrast colour of Yarn B, Knit 12 rows of garter stitch (Knit every row).  Transfer these 9sts to a stitch holder.

Module 2

Work as for Module 1 until 34 rows have been completed.   Then use the 3-needle cast off method to join Modules 1 and 2 to form an egg-timer shape.  (Alternatively cast off both modules and sew them together).

Module 3
Using Yarn A, pick up 40sts from the right-hand one side of the joined Modules 1 and 2 and work as for Module 1.

Module 4

This is an edge module and is slightly narrower than Modules 1-3.

Work Rows 1-26 as Module 1.

Row 27: K2tog, knit to last 2sts, K2tog (8sts).

Row 28: K2tog, knit to last 2sts, K2tog (6sts).

Row 29: K2tog, knit to last 2sts, K2tog (4sts).

Row 30: K2tog, K2tog. (2sts).
Row 31: K2tog and fasten off.

These 4 modules form the first section - the throw has 3 sections across its width.  For the central section you will need to repeat Module 3 instead of knitting Module 4 and for the third section you will need to knit Module 3 on the left-hand side and Module 4 on the right (at the edge).  You will need to knit a garter stitch linking piece to join the modules horizontally.

The photo below shows a middle section without edge modules but with a joining piece on each side.

When you are happy with the appearance of a section – I recommend that you weave in ends rather than leave all to the end.

For the next 2 sections – you do not need to knit edge modules because they fit between the sections below – so all the modules are the same.

For the third row of sections – you will need to include edge modules again.  The throw consist of 7 rows of sections (70 full modules and 12 part modules).  You will need to knit 4 more part modules to complete the edges at the top and bottom of the throw.

When you are knitting the sections, you can pick up from the modules that you have or you can knit them separately and sew them together afterwards.  There will always be some modules which need to be sewn together.

My throw consists of 7 rows of sections.  The full throw contains 70 full modules, 12 incomplete modules (like Module 4) and 35 garter stitch joining pieces.

Edging

An edge was only added to the modules which did not have one.  Using Yarn A and 6.5mm needles, pick up about 34sts from the edge of the module - purl one row and cast off.

Finishing

Sew in any remaining ends.  Block the finished throw.

An Odd Ball Shawl

I have knitted lots of shawls and sometimes find it depressing that every row gets longer and longer.  You cast on 3sts and then keep increasing until you have hundreds.  So I decided to knit a little shawl that started with the maximum number of stitches and then keep decreasing until you could k3tog.

I bought a few odd balls of fashion yarn with sparkly bits – including 2 shades of Sirdar Divine and Stylecraft Cabaret.

Then using 6mm needles I cast on 201 stitches and decided to knit a mitred triangle – decreasing on the edges and at the centre.

Row 1: Knit.

Row 2: K2tog, K97, S1, K2tog, psso, K97, K2tog.
Row 3: Knit.

As with the throw I have just finished.  I knitted every row and decreased on the front on alternate rows – the main difference being that to make a triangle I had to decrease at the ends of the rows as well as at the centre.

I changed colour randomly – working 2, 4 or 6 rows with the different yarns – and then decided to finish the shawl off with a fringe.

I am pleased with the end result – it is not too large – rather like a large triangular scarf.  It is very light-weight and will be easy to wear around my shoulders – cheering up a dull day. 

Odd Ball Charity Throw

After about 6 months of knitting this throw – on and off – I have finished it.

It consists of 54 mitred squares – 6 columns of 9.  For each square I cast on or picked up 71sts (35 +1+ 35).  All the yarn was double knitting weight and I used 5mm needles and garter stitch.   

Row 1: Knit. (back of work)
Row 2: K34, sl1, K2tog, psso, K34.
Row 3: Knit.

I decreased at the centre of all even rows, and knit all odd rows.

I changed colour after I had knitted 8 ridges of garter stitch, working 4 rows (2 ridges) with a contrasting colour, and then working a second stripe after another 8 ridges of garter stitch.  I then used the main colour until the square was complete.  No two squares are the same and there is no pattern – apart from making sure that similar colours are kept apart.

I used a beige coloured yarn to put an edge on the throw – I just picked up stitches (without counting them) and worked 3 rows of garter stitch.  I did the sides first and then the top and bottom.

The throw has turned out larger than I had planned because although each square is roughly 8” square individually – when joined - the squares stretch quite a lot.  If I knit it again – and I probably will to use up other oddments of yarn – I will make the squares smaller – perhaps using as few as 63sts (31 + 1 + 31).

I will now probably donate it to Oxfam for them to sell at festivals in the summer.

Poppies Throw

I have finished my poppies throw.  It took a little longer than I had thought (things always do).  I did manage to finish the other 3 strips by the weekend, but then I took ages fiddling about with the edges.  The problem is that stocking stitch curls up easily.   I looked at the Noro Hearts throw pattern and another Debbie Bliss pattern that I have got for a similar throw – in both cases they only have a narrow edge and both suggest you pick up a lot of stitches.  I decided to pick up less stitches so that the edges would be not curl so much and in the case of the top and bottom – I used smaller needles.

I am pleased with the result – it looks like the idea I had in my head.  In case you are interested in knitting one – I am including the pattern below.  I haven’t filled in the black part at the centre of the poppy because otherwise the lines don’t show up.  Basically at it widest point the centre is 9sts across. 

Poppies Throw Pattern

Yarn: Noro Kureyon  - 2 background shades.  I used 332 for the green squares (approximately 6 balls) and 263 for the brown squares (I used 8 balls of this because I used the orange parts of the balls for the poppies).

Poppy yarns – I used about 8 balls but I used up oddments and in some cases I only used half a ball.  My throw includes the following shades: 124, 204, 319, 277, 326, 272 and 263.

Black centres – again I used lots of odd bits of yarn left over from other projects. 

5mm needles
5mm circular needle
4mm circular needle

I knitted 6 strips of 7 squares.

Using a background shade and 5mm needles cast on 33sts and follow the chart shown below joining colours as necessary.  I used separate balls – so in the middle of the poppy, I was knitting with 5 separate balls.

When I had completed 6 strips I sewed them together using mattress stitch.

Right Side Edging

Using a 5mm circular needle and a background colour, pick up 25-26sts from the side of each square (approximately 176sts) and then work 3 rows in garter stitch.  Cast off. (Repeat for Left Side Edging).

Top Edging

Using a 4mm circular needle pick up and a background colour, pick up 3sts from the top of the side edging and 28sts from the top of each square, and then 3sts from the other side edging.  (approximately 174sts).  Work 5 rows in garter stitch.  Cast off.

Repeat for Bottom Edging picking up stitches from the bottom!

Sew in any ends.

Pattern for Odd Ball Throw

Yesterday I finished my odd ball throw by adding a border.

For those of you who would like to knit your own version of it – I am including a pattern below. 

The design consists of 7 strips of 7 squares.  Each square is made up of 5 small squares and 1 large one.  As I was using up odd balls – it is difficult for me to say how much yarn is needed.  As I said in my previous post – you need golf ball size amounts for the small squares and tennis ball size for the large ones. 

You could do a completely random colour sequence.  I didn’t.  For the first strip I did Blue, Green, Yellow, Red, Pink, Mauve and Turquoise.  For the next strip I started 2 colours along – so I started with Yellow, and then Red, Pink, Mauve, Turquoise, Blue and Green.  I continued in a similar way across the throw with the result that there is large square of each colour in each row and in each strip.

Materials

Approximately 1200g of DK yarn in various colours.
5 mm needles

Size of Throw:

Size of one square (made from the 5 small squares and one large one): approximately 21cm across and 22cm down.  The exact side of the throw will depend on your tension.  You can adjust the size of your throw by adding more squares or adding a wider border.

You can knit 49 squares and then sew them together, or you can knit 7 strips of 7 squares and sew these together.  I did not do any sewing.  My throw was knitted as one piece from left to right casting on or picking up stitches as necessary.   

Small Square

Row 1: Using 5mm needles and Yarn D, cast on 23sts.
Row 2: K11, P1, K11.
Row 3: K10, S2K1PSSO (Slip 2sts, K1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over – decreasing by 2sts), K10.
Row 4: K10, P1, K10.
Row 5: K9, S2K1PSSO, K9.
Row 6: K9, P1, K9.
Row 7: K8, S2K1PSSO, K8.
Row 8: K8 P1, K8.
Row 9 K7, S2K1PSSO, K7.
Row 10: K7, P1, K7.
Row 11: K6, S2K1PSSO, K6.
Row 12: K6, P1, K6.
Row 13: K5, S2K1PSSO, K5.
Row 14: K5, P1, K5.
Row 15: K4, S2K1PSSO, K4.
Row 16: K4, P1, K4.
Row 17: K3, S2K1PSSO, K3.
Row 18: K3, P1, K3.
Row 19: K2, S2K1PSSO, K2.
Row 20: K2, P1, K2.
Row 21: K1, S2K1PPO, K1
Row 22: P3tog and fasten off.

 For the second small square - cast on 11sts and then pick up 12sts from the right-hand edge of the first square.  Work as for first square.

For the third small square - cast on 11sts and then pick up 12sts from the right-hand edge of the second square. Work as for first square.

For the fourth small square – pick up 11sts from the top of the first square and then cast on 12sts. Work as for first square.

For the fifth small square – pick up 11sts from the top of the fourth square and then cast on 12 sts. Work as for first square.

Large Square

Row 1: Pick up 22sts along the top edge of the third and second squares, 1 st from the top corner of the first square, and then pick up 22sts from the side edge of squares four and five. (45sts)

Row 2: K22, P1, K22.
Row 3: K21 S2K1PSSO (Slip 2sts, K1, pass the 2 slipped stitches over – decreasing by 2sts), K21.
Row 4: K21, P1, K21.
Row 5: K20, S2K1PSSO, K20.
Row 6: K20, P1, K20.
Row 5: K19, S2K1PSSO, K19.
Row 6: K19, P1, K19.
Row 7: K18 S2K1PSSO, K18.
Row 8: K18, P1, K18.
Row 9: K17, S2K1PSSO, K17.
Row 10: K17, P1, K17.
Row 11: K16, S2K1PSSO, K16.
Row 12: K16, P1, K16.
Row 13: K15 S2K1PSSO, K15.
Row 14: K15, P1, K15.
Row 15: K14, S2K1PSSO, K14.
Row 16: K14, P1, K14.
Row 17: K13, S2K1PSSO, K13.
Row 18: K13, P1, K13.
Row 19: K12, S2K1PSSO, K12.
Row 20: K12, P1, K12.
Row 21: K11, S2K1PSSO, K11.
Row 22: K11, P1, K11.
Row 23: K10, S2K1PSSO, K10.
Row 24: K10, P1, K10.
Row 25: K9, S2K1PSSO, K9..
Row 26: K9, P1, K9.
Row 27: K8, S2K1PSSO, K8.
Row 28: K8 P1, K8.
Row 29 K7, S2K1PSSO, K7.
Row 30: K7, P1, K7.
Row 31: K6, S2K1PSSO, K6.
Row 32: K6, P1, K6.
Row 33: K5, S2K1PSSO, K5.
Row 34: K5, P1, K5.
Row 35: K4, S2K1PSSO, K4.
Row 36: K4, P1, K4.
Row 37: K3, S2K1PSSO, K3.
Row 38: K3, P1, K3.
Row 39: K2, S2K1PSSO, K2.
Row 40: K2, P1, K2.
Row 41: K1, S2K1PPO, K1
Row 42: P3tog and fasten off.

You should have now completed one square made from 6  squares.  If you want to knit strips or the throw as one piece, you will need to continue repeating the shapes – but you should pick up stitches where possible instead of casting them on.

Finishing

Sew in any ends darning any holes between the squares.

Borders

For the top and bottom of the throw: using 5mm and DK; pick up 231sts from the edge and work in garter stitch for 4 rows.  Cast off.

For the side edges: using 5 mm needles and DK, pick up 237sts from the edge (231 as before and then 3 more on the edge of the top and bottom), and work in garter stitch for 4 rows.  Cast off.

Irregular Striped Scarf Version 2 - Pattern and Finished Version

As expected this scarf did not take very long to knit. 

 

It is a bit bright – I can hear my mother saying something like that.  However I like the fact that it can be twisted in different ways revealing different colours.

In the end I decided to only use 2 balls of Noro Silk Garden which means that this scarf is a bit shorter than the original version.  It also means I have enough yarn for a third version of the scarf – which I have already cast on!

The pattern for this version of the scarf is give below.

Irregular Striped Scarf Pattern Version 2

Colour A 1 ball x 50g ball Noro Silk Garden Shade 84 (100m)
Colour B 1 ball x 50g ball Noro Silk Garden Shade 314 (100m)
Colour C 1 skein x Rowan Fine Art Aran yarn Shade 545 (170m/186yds)
6mm needles
 
Rib Pattern
Row 1: *K3, P1; repeat from* to end.
Row 2: *K2, P1, K1; repeat from * to end.
This pattern forms an open rib.

Using yarn A, cast on 36sts and work in pattern for 6 rows.

Continue in the rib pattern throughout following the colour sequence as given below.
Rows 7-12: yarn C. (6 rows)
Rows 13-18: yarn B. (6 rows)
Rows 19-24: yarn C. (6 rows)
Rows 25-74: yarn A. (50 rows)
Rows 75-80: yarn C. (6 rows)
Rows 81-86: yarn B. (6 rows)
Rows 87- 92: yarn A. (6 rows)
Rows 93-98: yarn C (6 rows)
Rows 99-100: yarn B (2 rows)
Rows 101-102: yarn C (2 rows)
Repeat the last 4 rows until 50 x 2 rows stripes have been completed (96 more rows)
Rows 199-204: yarn B (6 rows)
Rows 205- 210: yarn C (6 rows)
Rows 211-216: yarn B (6 rows)
Rows 217-244: yarn A (28 rows)
Rows 245-250: yarn C (6 rows)
Rows 251-256: yarn B (6 rows)
Rows 257-262: yarn C (6 rows)
Rows 263-268: yarn A (6 rows)
Rows 269-270: yarn C (2 rows)
Rows 271-272: yarn A (2 rows)
Rows 273-274: yarn C (2 rows)
Rows 275-276: yarn B (2 rows)
Repeat the last 4 rows until approximately 320 rows have been completed or there is only a small amount of yarn B left.

Cast off in pattern using yarn B.

Sew in ends.

 

Domino Square Tea Cosy

 

Since I designed a diamond-shaped tea cosy for the first GMC Tea Cozy book – I have wanted to make one using domino squares.  I think it looks very effective, fits the tea cosy well and is thick enough to keep the tea warm.   If you would like to make one – a pattern is recorded below.

Materials: a small amount of 2 shades of DK yarn (Cream and Blue). (50g is enough, 25g may be enough)

Needles: 4mm

Each side of the cosy is made up of 3 rows of 4 squares.  I actually knitted the squares in columns rather than squares, but you could do it either way.

First square (bottom left-hand corner)

Row 1: Using cream cast on 21sts.

Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Change to blue yarn and K9, K3tog, K9.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Change back to cream yarn and K8, K3tog, K8.
Row 6:  Knit.
Row 7: Change to blue yarn and K7, K3tog, K7.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: Change to cream yarn and K6. K3tog, K6.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: Change to blue yarn and K5, K3tog, K5.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: Change to cream yarn and K4, K3tog, K4.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: Change to blue yarn and K3, K3tog, K3.
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: Change to cream yarn and K2, K3tog, K2.
Row 18: Knit.
Row 19: Change to blue yarn and K1, K3tog, K1.
Row 20: K3tog and fasten off.
 

Middle Row (Square above first square)

Row 1: Using cream pick up 10 sts from top of first square,  and then turn and cast on 9 sts.  (19 sts.)
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Change to blue yarn and K8, K3tog, K8.
Row 4:  Knit.
Row 5: Change to cream yarn and K7, K3tog, K7.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Change to blue yarn and K6. K3tog, K6.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: Change to cream yarn and K5, K3tog, K5.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: Change to blue yarn and K4, K3tog, K4.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: Change to cream yarn and K3, K3tog, K3.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: Change to blue yarn and K2, K3tog, K2.
Row 16: Knit.
Row 17: Change to cream yarn and K1, K3tog, K1.
Row 18: K3tog and fasten off.

Top Row (Square above second square)

Row 1:  Using cream pick up 9 sts from top of second square and then turn and cast on 8 sts.  (17sts.)
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Change to blue yarn and K7, K3tog, K7.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Change to cream yarn and K6. K3tog, K6.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Change to blue yarn and K5, K3tog, K5.
Row 8: Knit.
Row 9: Change to cream yarn and K4, K3tog, K4.
Row 10: Knit.
Row 11: Change to blue yarn and K3, K3tog, K3.
Row 12: Knit.
Row 13: Change to cream yarn and K2, K3tog, K2.
Row 14: Knit.
Row 15: Change to blue yarn and K1, K3tog, K1.
Row 16: K3tog and fasten off.

Repeat these 3 squares picking up or casting on as appropriate until you have knitted 2 sides of a tea cosy each consisting of 12 squares.

To tidy up the bottom of the cosy – using blue yarn, pick up 44 sts along the bottom edge and then immediately cast them off.

To finish the top of the cosy:

 

On the first side
Row 1: Using cream yarn pick up 32 sts along the top edge.
Row 2: *K2tog; repeat from * across the row. (16 sts).
Row 3: Change to blue yarn and knit.
Row 4: Knit.
Row 5: Change to cream yarn and knit.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Change to blue yarn.  *K2tog; repeat from * across the row. (8 sts).
Row 8: Knit.
Leave stitches on a spare needle.

Repeat the above for the top of the second side.

Knit the 2 sides together.

Sew in ends.

Sew down the sides, above the handle and the spout.

Join the sides at the bottom leaving openings large enough for the handle and spout.

Make a pompom and sew it on the top.